Our Airbnb had Netflix, and I was keen to introduce my brothers to Chang's refreshing outlook on authenticity. It seemed especially pertinent being that we were in Tokyo, and Chang had worked and eaten in the city. In one episode of The Mind of a Chef, he expounded on the wonders of tsukemen ramen, a fairly recent innovation in the Japanese ramen scene, and a Tokyo speciality, featuring cold noodles served separate to a hot, concentrated dipping sauce. He visited the famous Rokurinsha on Tokyo Ramen Street, and we watched in food-envy as he slurped down thick, udon-like noodles, apparently struck dumb by its deliciousness.
I hadn't planned a visit to Rokurinsha. Generally I figured out our itinerary by sights we wanted to see, and then hoped to find good restaurants nearby, which was never difficult. But one day we had tickets to visit Tokyo Skytree, and I had included plenty of time to explore the immense mall of its lower floors -- including its dining options.
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| Tokyo Skytree |
And just our luck, there was a branch of Rokurinsha on the sixth floor. It didn't get as good reviews as the original, but once I floated the option, my brothers were sold on going.
There was a small queue. Outside the shop's front runs a line of stools, perhaps 12 or 14. When we arrived, it was around 14.00, likely after the lunchtime rush, but most of the chairs were taken. They manage the queue very well, however, and we noticed how most of the people waiting were browsing menus. As the line moved along and we could take a seat, a server rushed out and gave us a menu straight away. Excellent -- we could decide while we waited, speeding up the ordering process once we actually got in the door.
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| Japanese and English language menu (sorry for the glare) |
We knew we were meeting our cousin for okonomiyaki that night, so we decided not to go too crazy, especially since ramen can leave you rolling out the door. We each picked a small order of the regular dip noodles (i.e. toppings included menma, seaweed, uzumaki fishcake, and pork, but no seasoned egg), and ordering was done via vending machine: you put in your money, choose your options on the touchscreen, and hand the printed tickets to the waiter. Despite the queue, it only took 15 or so minutes for us to be seated at the counter, three alongside, though there were proper tables available if you were so inclined.
We had a great view behind-the-scenes, and staff were run off their feet managing the hungry crowds, even this late into the lunchtime rush. It wasn't long before our noodles arrived. The small was a perfect portion, and at only ¥780, insanely good value. The chilled noodles had a satisfying mouthfeel: chewy, bouncy, tasty in their own right. Dipped into the hot, concentrated broth, it was on a whole other level. The stock was deeply flavoured in that effortlessly effort-full way that Japanese stocks so often are, layered with umami. Miso, seaweed, dashi, animal fat, all combining to one of the most subtly intense stocks I've ever had. The noodles were the perfect vehicle, slippery and fat, with plenty of surface area to take on the flavour. Toppings were tasty too, of course, but almost superfluous when the base ingredients were this good.
At each seat, there was a tray of condiments and a jug of iced water, which was heaven considering the temperatures that day (well over 35°C). But even better was a kettle of hot water. Once you were finished with the noodles, this could be poured into your soup bowl to turn the remaining stock into a delicious, drinkable broth. Want to see some dipping in action?
I'm sure there are better places serving tsukemen ramen. Lesser known, hole-in-the-wall joints where the stock is made by some ancient ojisan over the period of a month. But Rokurinsha's is pretty damn good. I can see how you could crush a regular size bowl without even thinking. And maybe even ask for an extra helping of noodles.
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| Speaks for itself, no? |
Date of visit: 08/09/2019
Address: 1-1-2 Oshiage | 6F Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi, Sumida 131-0045, Tokyo, Japan
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